Press conference at the opening of INHORGENTA

Great values in a changing world At the press conference marking the opening of Inhorgenta, confidence prevails in these tense times.

Traditionally, at the start of Inhorgenta, the jewelry and watch industry provides an insight into the business development of the past year and its expectations for the future. The figures from the trade fair company and its exhibition concept also show where the industry is heading.

One of the major innovations at this year’s trade fair was the snow, joked Inhorgenta CEO Stefan Rummel on Friday morning at the start of the press conference. Indeed, the venue had been transformed into a bizarre winter wonderland. But he then went on to announce some truly significant new features. The first was obvious: for the first time, the conference took place in the middle of the action, in Hall B2, immediately highlighting what Inhorgenta increasingly values: encounters and its role as a host that makes luxury tangible and storytelling possible.

To this end, this year’s trade fair—with the theme of “Craftsmanship”—was designed as a living workshop, with many places where visitors could observe craftsmanship up close.

Following growth in recent years, the key figures for the event remain stable: 900 exhibitors and 1,200 brands from 35 countries will present their products and services in six halls. The trade fair management expects 25,000 trade visitors. Rummel noted that the number of German exhibitors continues to decline. Among foreign companies, Italy is ahead of India and China, and the trade fair is strengthening its alliances with France, Poland, and Romania. Another noteworthy development is the renewed cooperation with the Swiss FHH, which is represented by the Piaget and Oris brands.

From an international perspective, Inhorgenta is a “gateway to Europe” and its still financially strong markets, according to Stefan Rummel.

Industry faces challenges

Dr. Guido Grohmann, managing director of the German Jewelry and Watch Industry Association, sees impressive figures despite the challenging operating environment. He pointed out that the recent sharp rise in export sales was largely due to higher precious metal prices and therefore did not mean higher margins, but rather greater calculation effort and working with more price-sensitive customers. He therefore described 2025 as a year of “conscious consumption.”

Added to this is pressure to adapt due to a tense geopolitical situation and increased regulatory requirements. However, he observes how confidently the industry is dealing with the challenges and is therefore rather optimistic.

Stephan Lindner, president of the Jewelers Trade Association, sees retail sales growing steadily at a high level.

Not least because customers are not currently deterred by the rise in precious metal prices. For many, the attitude is “If you’re going to do it, do it right!”

Lindner expressed his conviction that brick-and-mortar specialist retailers would remain dominant, arguing that they had one advantage over online retailers: the industry sells emotions, and nothing can beat a personal consultation when it comes to that.

He sees problems for downtown jewelers more in a traffic policy that keeps car-driving customers away from city centers and now in a glaring shortage of young talent: many business owners are unable to find suitable successors before they retire.

Trade fairs as places of encounter

Beyond the figures, the associations have also observed what is currently trending:

Gold jewelry is important, says Lindner, as rising prices are encouraging some buyers. And there is currently a lot of interest in yellow gold.

Guido Grohmann sees a shift toward soft, organic shapes and warm colors in jewelry. And in watches, too, the renaissance of the classic three-hand watch reflects a desire for more restraint.

This fits in with what he sees as the market-defining themes of the moment: conscious luxury, origin, quality, and longevity.

Inhorgenta is focusing on precisely these values this year, as they can all be experienced in the field of craftsmanship, which is the theme of this year’s event. Stefanie Mändlein, Exhibition Director of the trade fair, recognizes that the world has changed and wants to make the event a place for people to meet. The more than 30 stations where watchmakers, goldsmiths, engravers, and gem setters demonstrate their craftsmanship in live presentations are also ideal for this purpose.

In addition, there is a supporting program on three stages and over 25 event areas for events such as Watch Talks and the new Precious Metals Forum: space for discussions and new contacts.

Thanks to the new concept, it was already apparent during the press conference how the aisles were filling up and the exhibition stands were becoming busier. This also gave cause for great optimism.