New watches, new rules – watch trends from INHORGENTA 2026

Anyone involved in watchmaking knows, of course, that there are a multitude of rules to follow to ensure reliable and precise functionality.

Designers consistently manage to creatively and surprisingly utilize the leeway outside these essential rules for their craft and new watch trends. We took a look among the watch exhibitors at Inhorgenta to find the trendsetters of 2026.

50 Shades of Blue – New elegance for the daily look – Small but mighty: The Under-35 Club – The best of yesterday: Vintage-style watches

50 Shades of Blue

Blue is the color of the sky, water, and ice. And wherever it appears, it manifests in countless shades. For many people, these impressions are associated with tranquility, vastness, and stability. Our brains therefore often link blue with relaxation and reliability.. Furthermore, blue appears more neutral than, for example, red and orange, and is therefore perceived as pleasant for longer periods. No wonder blue is the most popular color worldwide.

In many cultures, blue therefore also represents positive things such as loyalty, peace, wisdom, and spirituality. Historically, blue pigment was also rare and valuable for a long time, which gave the color a special status, for example in art and clothing.

Blue has also been a favorite color of watch designers for some time now. They utilize the multifaceted range of all shades of blue, using it to color dials and watch straps, or employing the world's favorite color for attractive accents.

Ebel: Chronograph Ebel 1911

Clockwork: Sellita SW510a (automatic) Power reserve: 48 hours Features: Hour, minute, central seconds, chronograph Case dimensions: 44 x 13.65 mm Materials: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 10 bar Dial: Ice blue, chocolate brown, sunburst finish, electroplated Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet or black, perforated calfskin leather strap Special feature: Sapphire crystal case back RRP: 3.950 € ebel.com

Citizen: NJ0210-13L

Clockwork: Caliber 8210 (automatic) Power reserve: 40 hours Features: Hour, minute, central second, date Case dimensions: 40 x 13.02 mm Materials: Stainless steel, crystal glass Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: Royal blue, Dauphiné pointer Bracelet: blue leather strap Special feature: glass floor RRP: 239 € citizenwatch.eu

Eberhard & Co.: Contodat

Clockwork: Caliber Sellita SW290-1 (automatic) Power reserve: 38 hours Features: Hour, minute, small second, date Case dimensions: 39 x 11.3 mm Materials: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 10 bar Dial: Blue, orange accents, sunburst finish Bracelet: integrated stainless steel band Special feature: Inspirational model from the 1970s RRP: 2.940 €

G-SHOCK: MRG-B2100D-2ADR

Clockwork: Tough-Solar quartz clock Battery life: 5 months with battery (under normal use without light exposure), 18 months with battery (in complete darkness with energy saving function activated) Features: Hour, minute, second, fully automatic calendar (date, day) Case dimensions: 49.5 × 44.4 × 13.6 mm Materials: Titanium, Cobarion, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 20 bar Dial: Hanada-Iro-Blue, three-dimensional with a grid-like structure, inspired by Kigumi Bracelet: Titanium bracelet Special feature: Bluetooth pairing with the smartphone, time calibration, signal reception RRP: 4.200 €

Mühle-Glashütte: Sportivo Large Date

Clockwork: MU9424-GD (automatic) Power reserve: 41 hours

Features: Hours, minutes, central seconds, large date with quick correction, stop-seconds Case dimensions: 42.5 x 12.5 mm Materials: Stainless steel, ceramic, sapphire glass Waterproof rating: 30 bar Dial: Blue with a color gradient Bracelet: Textile or leather/rubber strap, stainless steel strap with length-adjustable safety folding clasp Special feature: Shockproof woodpecker neck regulation, mill rotor RRP: €2,990 (leather/rubber strap), €3,240 (stainless steel strap)

Zeppelin (Pointtec): Mediterranean

Clockwork: Miyota 8217 (automatic) Power reserve: 40 hours

Features: Hours, minutes, central seconds, 24-hour display, date Case dimensions: 40 x 12 mm Materials: Stainless steel, mineral glass Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: Azure blue Bracelet: leather strap Special feature: glass floor RRP: 349 €

New elegance for the daily look

So-called dress watches have been fashionable since the 1950s, experiencing varying degrees of popularity. Currently, they are a major trend and are also very popular with Gen Z.

Feel free to deviate from the strict rules that characterize classic dress watches. They don't always have to be ultra-thin, ultra-simple, and minimalist. Instead, creative elegance is in vogue.

Tutima Glassworks: Patria

Clockwork: Caliber 617 (manual winder) Power reserve: 65 hours Features: Hour, minute, small second Case dimensions: 41 x 11.2 mm Materials: Titanium, sapphire glass Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: Graphite grey Bracelet: sheepskin Special feature: First Patria made of titanium RRP: 8.600 €

Citizen: AW015

Clockwork: Eco-Drive Caliber J800 Power reserve: 240 days Features: Hours, minutes, central seconds, day/date display Case dimensions: 40.5 x 10.4 mm Materials: Stainless steel or gold-plated stainless steel, crystal glass Waterproof rating: 10 bar Dial: Blue, black, green, white Bracelet: Leather strap (black or blue), stainless steel Special feature: screw-on case back, solar movement RRP: €169 (stainless steel, leather strap), €179 (stainless steel, stainless steel strap), €189 (gold-plated stainless steel, leather strap)

BA111OD: Chapter 8

Clockwork: Soprod caliber C105 (automatic) Power reserve: 42 hours Features: Hour, minute, small seconds, moon phase, date Case dimensions: 41 x 12.75 mm Materials: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: sandblasted Bracelet: Stainless steel Milanese bracelet, leather bracelet Special feature: Bracelet with quick-release system, sapphire crystal case back RRP: 1.395 €

Small but mighty – the under-35 club

People with smaller wrists have been enjoying the smaller sizes of men's and unisex watches for some time now. Now women are following suit, also expressing their appeal in increasingly smaller spaces. And yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, they still attract attention.

Ebel 1911

Clockwork: Quartz (Swiss Made) Features: Hour, minute, central second, date Case dimensions: 34 mm Materials: Stainless steel, yellow gold, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 10 bar Dial: galvanic brown Bracelet: Bicolor strap, leather strap Special feature: Kissing E symbol at 12 o'clock RRP: 4.000 €

Maurice Lacroix: 1975 Quartz 33mm

Clockwork: Ronda 515 (Quartz) Features: Hour, minute, central second, date Case dimensions: 33 x 8.5 mm Materials: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 10 bar Dial: silver-colored with sunburst cut, white mother-of-pearl, pink mother-of-pearl, diamonds Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet, bicolor bracelet, leather strap Special feature: 8 different versions RRP: 850-3.490 €

Citizen: EM122

Clockwork: Eco-Drive Caliber E031 Power reserve: 180 days Features: Hour, minute, central second Case dimensions: 34 x 7.33 mm Materials: Stainless steel, gold-plated stainless steel, crystal glass Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: White Bracelet: Milanese Special feature: Gemstones as indices, solar-powered movement RRP: €169 (stainless steel), €199 (gold-plated stainless steel)

The best of yesterday: Vintage-style watches

Was everything better in the past? Not at all! But when it comes to watch design, patterns from past decades seem to easily hold their own against today's styles. Vintage-style watches, much like dress watches, are a continuing super trend. And designers never tire of creating new, yet classic, looks.

Eberhard & Co.: „Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée“

Clockwork: Caliber EB 280 (manual winding) Features: Hour, minute, small seconds, flyback chronograph Case dimensions: 41.5 x 13.9 mm Materials: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: White, black, telemetry and minute scale, tachymeter scale Bracelet: Alligator leather Special feature: limited to 250 copies

Junghans: „1972 Chronoscope Sports Edition“

Clockwork: J645.83 (Quartz) Features: Hour, minute, small seconds, 24-hour display, chronograph, date Case dimensions: 43.3 x 11.3 mm Materials: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 10 bar Dial: Orange, turquoise, green Bracelet: leather strap Special feature: Limited to 600 copies per color RRP: 890 €

bauhaus (Pointtec): Dessau Automatic

Clockwork: Miyota 8215 (automatic) Power reserve: 40 hours Features: Hour, minute, central second, date Case dimensions: 42 x 11 mm Materials: stainless steel Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: White Bracelet: leather strap RRP: 299 €

ruhla (Pointtec): Space Control Sigmund Jähn Original

Clockwork: Miyota 8315 (automatic) Power reserve: 60 hours Features: Hour, minute, central second, date Case dimensions: 40 x 13 mm Materials: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 10 bar Dial: Brown dégradée Bracelet: stainless steel band Special feature: The inspiration is the timepiece worn by the first German in space, Sigmund Jähn, during his spaceflight. RRP: 449 €

Aristo: Aviator Gold

Clockwork: SW 200-1 (automatic) Power reserve: 38 hours Features: Hour, minute, central second, date Case dimensions: 38.5, 42 or 47 x 11.3 mm Materials: Stainless steel, gold-colored PVD-coated, sapphire crystal Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: Black Bracelet: leather strap Special feature: 3 case sizes RRP:€590 (38.5 mm), €690 (42 mm) or €790 (47 mm)

Yema: Skin Diver Slim Bronze CMM.20

Clockwork: CMM.20 (Automatic) Power reserve: 70 hours Features: Hour, minute, central second Case dimensions: 39 x 10 mm Materials: Bronze, sapphire glass Waterproof rating: 30 bar Dial: Dark green Bracelet: rubber Special feature: limited to 200 copies RRP: 2.249 €

Citizen: CA471

Clockwork: Eco-Drive caliber B620 Power reserve: 270 days Features: Hour, minute, second, 24-hour display, low battery indicator, chronograph, date Case dimensions: 39.9 x 12.33 mm Materials: Stainless steel, crystal glass Waterproof rating: 10 bar Dial: Black, White, Panda/Reverse Panda Bracelet: Stainless steel band, leather band Special feature: screw-on case back, solar movement RRP: €259 (leather strap), €269 (stainless steel strap)

Elka Watch: Series N

Clockwork: La Joux-Perret G101 (automatic) Power reserve: 68 hours Features: Hour, minute, central second Case dimensions: 36 x 10.5 mm Materials: Stainless steel, sapphire crystal „Chevé-Box“ Waterproof rating: 5 bar Dial: Black, Beige Bracelet: NATO strap, leather strap, rice grain stainless steel strap Special feature: Source of inspiration from the 1930s RRP: 1,745.10 (NATO strap), 1,801.80 € (leather strap), 1,842.75 € (rice grain strap)