Watch Trends 2026 – Classic Redefined
Together with author Jeannine Reiher, the German Association of Jewelry, Watches, Silverware and Related Industries (BVSU) identified market trends ahead of the spring trade fairs. These trends show that designers are focusing on subtle styles rather than bold, eye-catching designs.
Here to stay
Fleeting trends have never been the watch industry's forte, but now a silent agreement on timelessness seems to be taking shape. Pleasing case sizes and size selections in the collections, the return to round dials, the appreciation of mechanical movements, and the presence of classic three-hand watches all underscore the message: "We're here to stay."„
A touch of freshness is added through color and tactile highlights. Young, wild, and flamboyant classic cars remain the exception, but they bring vibrancy to the scene. Those who look closely can discover a surprising diversity among these modern classics – because the magic lies in the details…
1. Simple Classic
Hands-on: Minimalism with three hands
Fueled by the retro watch trend, classic three-hand watches are once again coming into sharper focus. They are no longer seen as boring, but rather as long-lasting investments that remain relevant even after many years.
This allows them to be worn for a long time from a sustainability perspective, without the fear of losing their modern appeal. And in their clear minimalism, they point to one purpose: to tell the time.
Round and available in several sizes
The preference for square watch cases is declining, while round shapes are regaining popularity. A striking trend is the increasing use of sibling watches: larger models are increasingly being paired with smaller ones, allowing the wearer to choose the optimal size.
The younger sibling often wears, but not necessarily necessarily, feminine styles, which can be expressed through subtle diamond embellishments. Compared to previous years, the larger models are more suited to the middle class and are around 40 millimeters in diameter.
Larger watches usually move beyond the three-hand watch category and use their size for functions and complications.
Spinning wheels for beginners
Mechanical watches at entry-level prices are in demand. Besides curiosity about traditional craftsmanship and an appreciation for quality, sustainability also plays a role. An affordable entry price makes it easier for newcomers to explore and test mechanical watches – ideally with room for future upgrades.
Black always works.
When it comes to watches, it's like with clothes: when in doubt, go black. Black is appropriate for business, it's fashionable, and it's also suitable for evening wear. Boring? No, it's a safe bet. But thankfully, there's also a wide variety of colors that can always replace the universal, all-time-use black watch.
2. Decorative item
Feminine and decorative
The trend towards smaller diameters is even more pronounced in women's watches. Delicate models appear feminine and approach the level of jewelry. Other versions appear as jewelry from the outset, revealing their dial only upon closer inspection.
All-gold watches emphasize the jewelry character; magnificently decorated dials with miniature paintings, enamels, engravings and guillochés stylishly testify to fine art and craftsmanship.
Last but not least, watches adorned with precious stones are among the most decorative examples of the trade. Diamonds are not only popular in brilliant cuts, but can also shine in baguette cuts.
Masculine structures and matte dials
In men's watches, textures continue to dominate the design. These now appear even more pronounced and vibrant, in scratch-like finishes, tie patterns, or recurring logos interpreted as subtle background patterns. Furthermore, a second trend is emerging: matte dials exude elegance and understated style and are increasingly taking center stage.
3. Perceived Time
Besides the visual aspect, there's the tactile experience – and this also plays a role this season, albeit a modest one at first. Those who reach for their watch in the dark will increasingly recognize it by its knurled bezel.
Not all decorations are the same. While round indentations on dive watches simply provide a secure grip, elsewhere they are used for purely decorative purposes. They can resemble coin edges, display the Clous de Paris pattern, or be inspired by pufferfish or other elements.
Not new, but worth mentioning in this context, are bezels set with brilliants, which feel different simply because of the stone setting.
4. Turquoise, silver and powder effects
Blue is constantly reinventing itself. After navy and ice blue, turquoise tones are now generating enthusiasm. Green also appears in mint green or, in a darker shade, petrol. Matte dial variations create a soft, blurred look and increase the diversity of color effects within the spectrum.
Other colors confidently stand alongside them, though without attracting the same level of attention as the blues. At the other end of the color spectrum, floral and powdery shades like lilac, apricot, and pink are gaining popularity.
Those who prefer a more understated and neutral look should take a look at watches with silver dials, especially those with blue accents. There's great potential here for new classics that effortlessly complement black and white.
5. Sustainability meets convenience
Mechanical watches, classic designs, pleasing and therefore comfortable sizes – all these aspects contribute to sustainability. In addition, there are recycled materials, including reused stainless steel, straps made from vegan or recycled materials, and environmentally friendly packaging.
Furthermore, it's not just environmental concerns that favor the choice of classic watches and automatic or solar-powered timepieces, but also, quite simply, convenience. No battery changes or charging, and no worrying about whether the watch is still fashionable, make it easier to navigate a complex world while maintaining a stylish look.
Source: BVSU
The German Association of Jewelry and Watches, Silverware and Related Industries (BVSU) was founded in Pforzheim in 1947. It represents the interests of over 170 member companies, primarily medium-sized businesses, at the national, European, and international levels. It is a member of the Federation of German Industries (BDI). The BVSU is the lead organization for German associations within the World Confederation of Jewelry and Jewelry Manufacturers (CIBJO). Furthermore, the BVSU represents the interests of the German watch industry within the European watchmaking association CPHE. The association is also a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) and the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030.
